Old Fashioned Christmas Charm In New England

Photo courtesy of The Preservation Society of Newport County

Christmas in New England has the old-fashioned charm of a Currier & Ives print or a heartwarming Hallmark movie. Whether you prefer a quaint small town, a historic fishing village or the over-the-top glamour of the Gilded Age, you’ll find something to love.

NEWPORT, R.I.

An important seaport in Colonial times, late 19th-century Newport became a fashionable summer resort for wealthy tycoons who built opulent “cottages” like The Breakers (48 bedrooms, 27 fireplaces). At Christmas time, the great Gilded Age mansions—many are now museums—welcome visitors with spectacular holiday displays for the six-week long Christmas in Newport. The Breakers has a 15-foot-tall poinsettia tree (made up of more than 150 plants) in the Great Hall and brings in nearly 30 trees, decorated to match each room. Outside, the 13-acre gardens are wrapped in lights for evening tours.

Other holiday events include lantern walking tours, performances of The Nutcracker at Rosecliff, and festive three-course brunches in the Chinese Tea House (on the back lawn of Marble House). Clear sparkling lights illuminate downtown’s Thames Street, the scenic harbor and wharfs, and the restored Colonial homes of the Point and Historic Hill are done up for the holidays. Enjoy a Christmas dinner of classics like roasted chestnut soup and goose en croûte at the 1875 Castle Hill Inn (castlehillinn.com). Spend the night in a room looking out onto Narragansett Bay. discovernewport.org

Photo courtesy of The Preservation Society of Newport County

MYSTIC, CONN.

On the banks of the Mystic River, this historic shipbuilding and whaling town (founded in 1654) leans into its nautical heritage. The holidays kick off with the arrival of Santa by tugboat, followed by the famous Lighted Boat Parade (prominently featured in the Hallmark movie Mystic Christmas). At the Mystic Seaport Museum, tourists and locals look forward to the Lantern Light Tours, a 70-minute progressive play. The plot changes every year but always takes place on Christmas Eve in 1876. Each evening, enjoy strolling carolers and sea chanteys performed by local choirs. In Olde Mistik Village (oldemistickvillage.com), warm up with tea and treats at Alice in the Village (aliceinthevillage.net), or have a “potion” at the Cloak and Wand’s custom soda bar (thecloakandwand.com). Walk over to Sophia’s Mystical Christmas for traditional ornaments, nutcrackers and nativities. Spend the night in the Whaler’s Inn (whalersinnmystic.com) overlooking the waterfront. The next morning, savor brunch at the in-house Shipwright’s Daughter (don’t miss the maple-brandy cinnamon buns). thisismystic.com

Photo courtesy of the Greater Mystic Chamber of Commerce

KENNEBUNK AND KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE

A popular summer destination, the Kennebunks also shine in winter—especially during the annual Christmas Prelude, a two-week celebration that includes a towering lobster-trap Christmas tree, caroling at the Franciscan Monastery, and the chance to see Santa and his red-clad lobster elves arrive by lobster boat. Step into a life-size snow globe. Stroll the Kennebunks’ main street for antique and vintage shops. Buy unusual and handmade gifts at Daytrip Society (daytripsociety.com) or visit Snug Harbor Farm (snugharborfarm.com) for home-and-garden goods and locally made jams and jellies. Make reservations at the very popular, very woodsy Earth at Hidden Pond (earthathiddenpond.com) for a farm-fresh dinner and a winter wine tasting. Stay at the White Barn Inn (aubergeresorts.com), a beloved local landmark for over 150 years. If you’re traveling with young kids, book one of the inn’s contemporary cottages. christmasprelude.com

Photo courtesy of the White Barn Inn

WOODSTOCK, VT.

Woodstock is one of the prettiest villages in New England, with a beautiful, old-fashioned Main Street and a village green surrounded by restored Georgian,

Federal and Greek Revival homes. Wassail Weekend (Dec. 13-15) is a long-standing holiday tradition: Streets and shops are decorated with swags, boughs and bows; carolers dress in 19th-century attire; and the aroma of mulled cider fills the air. A horse-drawn carriage tour is the best way to experience the town’s four covered bridges and to see watercolor vistas of the Green Mountains. Kids will be fascinated by the Billings Farm & Museum (billingsfarm.org), where they can meet jersey cows, draft horses, sheep and goats. Holiday activities like candle dipping and Victorian-style ornament making are offered throughout December. Watch glass blowing at Simon Pearce’s turbine-powered glass studio, fueled by the rushing Ottauquechee River. Afterward, dine at the Simon Pearce Restaurant (simonpearce.com), in a contemporary building with the backdrop of the Ottauquechee waterfall and covered bridge, where you can dine on locally sourced fare served on Pearce-designed pottery. The elegant Woodstock Inn (woodstockinn.com), a New England Federalist structure, is located on the village green and provides a warm welcome for travelers. Not to miss during the holidays: a life-size gingerbread house in the lobby. woodstock.com

Photo courtesy of Woodstock Inn & Resort

Writing this piece brought back the magic of childhood Christmases in New England for Irene Rawlings. She lives in Colorado with her photographer husband and two rescue dogs, and writes about art, travel, food and interiors for the Wall Street Journal’s Off Duty, The Saturday Evening Post, Mountain Living and others.