Tis The Season To Find The Perfect Wine For Holiday Celebrations

Alice Anderson grows grapes with minimal additives and follows conscientious vineyard management for her Amevive wines. Pronounced “ahm-veev,” the name translates to “soulful.” | Photos courtesy of Craft Wines

November through December are ripe with festive gatherings and holiday cheer, but it’s not always easy to know what wine to pair with each holiday dish.

Laura Stroud, who with her husband, Paul, owns Colorado’s Craft Wines, a wholesale distributor representing 50 winemakers and growers from the Central Coast of California to Oregon, says a general rule of thumb for pairing wines and food is “if it grows together, it goes together.” That means varietals found in the classic regions of France and Italy pair well with their corresponding cuisines.

Sometimes you might prefer a wine that plays off the food, or just the opposite—one that offsets flavors. “For example, rich, fatty foods pair great with brighter, more acidic wines. French fries and champagne are a match made in heaven for this reason,” Laura Stroud says. “But perhaps you need something big and bold like a cabernet to stand up to a rich roast.”

Paul Stroud founded Craft Wines in 2014. Most of the small-production farmers and winemakers the company represents bottle fewer than 4,000 cases per year. All of them farm their vineyards sustainably, organically or biodynamically.

Martha Stoumen apprenticed around the world before founding Martha Stoumen Wines, made from unexpected varietals that offer new takes on California classics.

“Our producers are stewards of the land and share a passion for responsible farming practices that result in authentic, terroir-driven wines that are some of the most sought-after and celebrated wines among wine professionals and restaurants,” says Laura Stroud.

One vintner who Craft Wines represents is Gina Giugni. The second-generation grower creates her own compost and eschews pesticides, instead fighting off diseases, mildews and pests with cultivated teas and other indigenous plants to provide good bacteria and microbes for the land and the vines. She leases a vineyard in Edna Valley, California, for her Lady of the Sunshine label.

Craft Wines sells and distributes its portfolio of wines throughout Colorado to high-end liquor stores and restaurants. “These small, boutique wineries are not paying marketing departments or national sales teams,” but are putting their resources into the vineyard and the wines, says Laura Stroud, adding that consumers get great quality wines for the price.

With the goal of connecting impassioned wine producers with equally enthusiastic customers, Paul Stroud founded Craft Wines in 2014. His wife Laura and two daughters are always by his side.

The Strouds have recommendations for selecting wines for a crowd during the celebration season:

Because the holidays bring together a variety of foods and palates, choose medium-bodied wines like pinot noirs and chardonnays that “don’t go to extremes,” that is, those without a lot of oak, too much acidity or a high alcohol content. California’s Scar of the Sea, which produces a variety of medium-body varietals at crowd-friendly prices, is a great option for seasonal celebrations.

As the weather grows colder, we tend to gravitate toward red wine, but Thanksgiving foods are so rich that we like something lighter and refreshing that will pair with a variety of dishes. Try a cru Beaujolais. This often-overlooked wine offers incredible quality for the price, which can be important when serving a large crowd. We love the Sonoma County Jolie-Laide gamay for this holiday.

If you are looking to step it up, pinot noirs from California’s Santa Rita Hills—especially from Tyler Winery—always impress, particularly if you want to bring something special for the host or hostess.

Since traditional Christmas foods can range from lighter seafood fare to rich, heavy roasts, choose a wine with versatility and balance. A great, cost-friendly choice is a domestic grenache, which has a medium body and compliments a variety of dishes. Our favorites are from A Tribute to Grace and Amevive, both California wines.

Husband and wife team Mikey Giugni of Scar of the Sea and Gina Giugni of Lady of the Sunshine produce wines that tell a story of where they come from, the people who farm them and reflect each vintage under the California sun.

For special occasions, we love the pinot noir from Oregon’s Walter Scott or cabernet from California’s Dalla Valle for those richer holiday meals, or a Whitcraft chardonnay (California) if seafood or lighter fare is on the menu.

Sparkling wine always makes a party feel more festive. You would be my favorite guest if you brought a magnum of champagne to my New Year’s party. For a still option, Paul Stroud’s go-to special occasion wine is a white burgundy, specifically anything from the Chablis region of France.

Paul Stroud, a former sommelier and restaurant director, has one last piece of advice when choosing wines: Drink what you like. But do not be afraid to try something new. “The best thing you can do to expand your wine horizons is to find a small, local wine shop and establish a relationship with one of the sales associates,” says Laura Stroud. “The staff at these smaller shops are usually very knowledgeable and/or aspiring wine professionals. They have tasted a lot of wines and know a lot about different producers. If you work with the same sales associate, you can let them know what you like, do not like, how much you like to spend, and give them feedback” each time you return for more recommendations. 

Some of the Strouds’ favorite retailers

The Vineyard Wine Shop
261 Fillmore St., Denver 303-355-8324 

Joy Wine & Spirits
1302 E. Sixth Ave., Denver 303-744-6219 

Proof & Spirits
3360 Larimer St., Denver 720-425-2959

Mr. B’s Wine & Spirits
(Three locations)
2101 Market St., #112, Denver 303-295-6727
380 W. 13th Ave., Denver 303-623-0505
2501 Dallas St., Aurora 720-531-6010

Cynthia Pasquale is a Denver writer.