Fun French Cuisine Fits Right Into Local Denver Neighborhood

Photos courtesy of Shawn Campbell

Fun and approachable: That’s what chef Nick Dalton wants people to know about the French food he serves. The cuisine doesn’t always have to be saturated in butter (although sometimes it is), and it doesn’t have to be served in a restaurant “where we take grandma for Christmas or a birthday.”

He and three partners—Justin Morse, Amy Kiel and Matt Daniels—opened Brassiere Brixton in 2020 in the Cole neighborhood of Denver. Brixton is a boisterous venue where the food has been described as “French-ish,” the music is loud, and customers are “able to walk in and get a burger, beer and a shot, and leave with a little buzz without throwing your wallet down on the table,” he says.

One small plate at Jaques contains beets, ricotta, orange supremes, crispy garlic and dill

After a few years working every day at Brixton, Dalton longed for a bigger space to grow the business and his staff and be part of a community. His vision was realized in Jacques, which opened in fall 2023 in the Lower Highland neighborhood. “My goal was to create a more welcoming space with an approachable French bistro that fit into the vibrant neighborhood.”

A mix of classic and modernized entrees and small plates enables customers to enjoy a leisurely dining experience or to “pop in and have a martini … or a snack before you go to the theater,” says Dalton, who has been a chef in Denver for 17 years.

The French classic, steak tartare, topped with a raw egg

Dalton isn’t wedded to any one culture. Growing up in Los Angeles in a prominently Mexican neighborhood, he learned a lot about making tamales and carnitas and roasting corn. Later, some of his career focused on South American cuisine.

It was during visits to Montreal and Paris that he fell in love with French food. His menu items often explore the flavors of France’s southern border and nearby areas of Northern Africa and the Mediterranean to highlight the country’s regional diversity.

Traditional mussels and pâté are menu standards, for instance, while the flavor profiles of the duck confit and half chicken change depending on the season.

Jacques’ cabbage salad features dukkah, pickled green tomato, crispy shallots and peppercorn ranch dressing

One item that never changes is the steak frites, which Dalton says is the “perfect dish”—“a very spicy peppercorn sauce with beautifully seasoned crispy potatoes and a nicely cooked steak.”

On the other hand, he has altered the French onion soup by removing the beef broth—a traditional ingredient. “We didn’t really change the flavor, per se, but we did make it approachable to a larger clientele,” he says.

Burgers appear on the menus at both bistros. Dalton feels that burgers can be overpriced and overrated, but “we do a really good job with burgers at both restaurants.”

The barbajuan is a fritter stuffed with snail and mushroom duxelles and served with butter aioli and capers)

The chef likes to play with flavors: “Trying to find inspiration from other places is always exciting,” he says. “I’ve always loved Asian flavors with duck.” The duck confit at Brixton, for instance, is served with steamed radish, fried duck egg and sweet soy. Dalton says the dish is a customer favorite.

Feeling inspired? Try making one of Dalton’s favorites: charred leeks. “I love these braised leeks for their versatility. On toast, with a poached egg, with sautéed mushrooms, etc. They’re a staple item in the fridge for enhancing and adding to other dishes. My favorite is just with bread and sardines,” says Dalton.  

CHARRED LEEKS

Ingredients

4 medium-size leeks
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon white miso paste
2 tablespoons butter
2-3 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tin of sardines or fresh if available (see notes) Freshly made baguette
Additional olive oil and parsley for garnish

Instructions

Trim the dark green tops off the leeks, leaving the white and light green parts. Remove just the visible roots from the bottom, trying to leave the base of the leek intact. Cut in half lengthwise and rinse well to remove any dirt trapped between the layers.

Turn the grill to high. Brush leeks with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the leeks cut side down on the grill. Char for about 5 to 7 minutes, until they develop a dark color and become tender. Set aside.

In a large cast-iron pot, combine the chicken stock, white miso paste, butter, thyme and bay leaf. Stir until the miso is dissolved. Add the charred leeks cut side up. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook on low heat for about 20-25 minutes, or until the leeks are soft and tender. Check occasionally and add more stock if needed.

Cut the baguette into slices. Drizzle with olive oil and grill until toasted.

Arrange the braised leeks on a serving platter. Top with the sardines. Drizzle a little olive oil over the dish and garnish with fresh thyme if desired. Serve with the toasted baguette for dipping into the flavorful broth.

Notes: If you use fresh sardines, place skin side down on a hot grill for 5 to 7 minutes, until charred and cooked through. Brush with liquid from the braised leeks to keep the flesh from drying out. Adjust the amount of miso for your preferred flavor intensity. You can also add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice over the sardines for an added burst of flavor. 

JACQUES
3200 Tejon St. 720-925-2332 
Dinner: Wednesday-Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.
Happy Hour: Wednesday-Saturday, 5 to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. 

Cynthia Pasquale is a Denver writer